Fiddle Di- Dee

 

 

 

Sometime, I wish I hadn't started a particular design.

 

People don't realize what goes into making clothes, especially from scratch.....

with no staff..... on domestic machines!

 

Designing can be a very mind taxing job,

its not just about drawing pretty dresses and colouring in...

 

A tutor once told me-

 

'it's not enough to just be creative'

 

and he was right.

 

A good designer has to be

an engineer, an architect, and have the possession of good

foresight.

 

Moulage

 

Technical awareness is mandatory in this particular method of working.

There has to be a way in, a way out, it as to be comfortable and of course it has to look hot!

 

It looks a mess I know....

 

 

Believe me, i'm on edge.

 

I do get stressed out,  but not for lack of skill,

i'm impatient.

All i can see is the finish line, and i want to get there soooo fast that I have a little breakdown.

 

 

Take a minuet to calm yourself,

 step back and walk around... pretend your wearing it, and think to yourself (our out loud... I do- do that) is this working?

 

 

 

 

Actually this particular article was a last minuet addition to the line up,

one Emma, wasn't so sure about.

 

But recently I heard a quote....

 

'Instincts are Everything,

We ignore them at our peril'

 

So.... i'm doing it.

 

 

...She loves it now.

 

 

 

 

 

 



Sneaky Peeky

 

 

 

Just a few processes away from finishing another one!

 

 

 

Emma finishing off the important bits before

a very laborious textile application.

 

The picture below was taken before the

 process had begun, as the technique is fashioned from a shear fabric....

preparing it is almost as testing as the actual procedure.

 

 



 Something New

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Erm yes... i do set myself on....

 

 

 

 

 

We should all live by this motto....

 

 

but make sure you carry a lint roller.



A Style Description

Describing our style.

 

We draw inspiration from early couture trends, through

 1920's to the 1960's

(skipping the Seventies)

and ending up with the really creative bits from the 1980's.

 

 

Our way of working is

Romantic, playful but understated, and Organic.

 

My direct source of inspiration comes from Music.

 

While i'm walking with my Ipod,

I make a direct link to a specific piece of music.

I then use what that music makes me think and feel.

 

I can begin referencing that mood to fist hand primary sources,

sampling and photography,

or secondary sources like books and the internet.

 

Although we don't have favourite designers,

it's my opinion as designers,

were not entitled to preference's, an open mind and all that. 

 

 

But the last word in fashion for Emma is Valentino.

Beautiful long classic lines, tones of sumptuous fabrics, and decadent embroideries.

 

For me, it's hard to choose a favourite,

I am in debt to so many of my role models.

I really wouldn't like to stipulate who I should celebrate the most.

 

Christian Dior

John Gailliano

 

Givenchy (image, Ricado Tisci)

 

Thierry Mugler

 

Gianfranco Ferre

 

Jean Paul Gaultier

 

Balenciaga

 

 Alexander McQueen

 

Christian Lacroix

 

... to name a few.

Each one an inspiration, a teacher, and a legend.

 

 

 

 



Ready for the Weekend

 

 
You Better Work!

 

The best part for all designers

 has to be the transition from an idea

 to the finished article.

 

 

 

 

 

 

-SH-

 

 

We can't show you to much orthey'll be nothing

 for you to wow over when its all done.

But we will post snippets and little bits of intrest.

 

This weekend has been the perfect chance for us to catch up with

the more labour intensive jobs, like cutting and basting.

 

 

 

 

Well, i say we....... Emma.

 

It's been a time for me to catch up on the designs

that haven't yet been drafted, or the ones that need altering.

 

 

 

 

 

It's not easy making clothes,

and it's not easy making the type of clothes we do.

theres a lot of tears, stress, and tantrums (almost always by me).

Emma has a lot more patience

 for the practical side of things,

 but when i get stresed out,

i have one word that helps me through the moment.

 

 

 BALLS.

 



We Did It First!

Erm........Yes we did it first.



 

Emma Hall 2007!

 

 

Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Summer 2014

Stuff it

 

Drafting the design that will

be stitched to make quilting.

 

 

 

 

A complicated process of

drawings, measurements, and matching up patterns.

 

 

This pattern, along with 4 other pieces will be stitched

twice over to make this curious textile.

 

 

 

 



Time. All in time.

 

 

All though we love what we do,  

its frustrating that we only have a

limited time to spend on the project each week.

 

Due to the fact that we work full time to fund it,

it seams like we've been on it for ever.

 

The type of clothes we make require meticulous attention to detail,

delicate stitches,

and a whole lot of patience;

 and because there are only two of us.......

 

yes it is taking a while.

 

But we are getting closer to the finish line every time we pick up a needle.

 

 

Here's a look what has to be done to make a garment

 

 

 

First and idea, normally in the form of a sketch

 

 

 

A block made on the stand a three dimensional interpretation of the drawing,

marked up and notched

 

 

 

then the pieces are traced to make a pattern we can keep and use for further reference.

 

 

Then we can make the Toile out of calico or a fabric closest to the final fabric.

This the time to check fit and look etc. before we cut the actual fabric.

Normally for time saving we only make half a toile, unless it necessary to make the entire thing.

 

 

Then we cut the fabric.

This is my least favourite part of the process, it seams to never end.

We normally cut the entire pattern 3 times (sometimes four).

Lining, Backing(s), top fabric.... so

get to it Emma.

 

We can then start the assembly of the pieces and work out a method of make.

 

We first have to baste the top fabric and the backing (interfacings) so they don't move or slip when sewn.

 

 

 

Lots of Pins!

 

Don't be a pin Hater!

 

 

After the bulk of the sewing is complete we can start the finishing,

some of which has to be done before the pieces get sewn together.

 

 

The bulky seams get sewn back into the backing

 to aid pressing and achieve a sweeter line.

 

 

When the shell of the garment is complete, pockets, under stitching, facings, we can then insert the lining

 

 

The label goes in last when all is done.

Because the garments are made three dimensionally, moulded, they have to be packed

with tissue to help retain Their shape.

 

I think its Emma's favourite bit.... its the little things.

 

 

 



Idle hands are the devil's playground

But busy hands are Golden
 

 

Hand Finishing

 

Gathering

 

Embroidery

 

Pleating

 
 

Pinning

Willing fingers and patience

make light work of this precision craft.

Emma's hands have always fascinated me,

Nimble and articulate,

 like a squirrel inspecting an acorn.

It's as if they were made to do this.